aldersprig: an egyptian sandcat looking out of a terra-cotta pipe (Default)
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Starting with a sidetrack: Timeline

Naming notes here

Current year in story is 20 Alessely.

The year before 1 Alessely was 63 Alaszia.

The year before 1 Alaszia was 41 (g'g'grandpa).

Alessely was the 9th son of the 9th son of Alaszia.
She was the 3rd daughter of the 3rd daughter of g'g'grandpa.
(inheritance notes)
Rin is the 9th/9th of Alessely.

Fashion!

Referring to drawing here for a general silhouette of "now."

Assuming rectangular construction as a basis, and having emigrated from a warmer climate.

Garments in g'g'grandpa's time probably resembled a kimono crossed with a heartwarmer shawl (wrap around, then around the back, then back around the front for an extra layer.

I think that a scarf got added to this, which then became an integral collar, which in the early days of Alaszia shortened to a small, stiffer collar.

The Bitrani were using buttons around then to bring their necklines up high, so Alaszia, who was young and shapely at the beginning of her reign, began to tighten in the dresses around the chest and waist.

The pants are a more recent innovation, as riding became more common, and especially in the early years of Alessely's reign, where women gained more freedom. The shorter oversleeves allow for more freedom of movement than the long drapey sleeves that were common in Alaszia's reign.

Fibers available include goat wool, a linen equivalent that tends bluish in hue, a hemp equivalent that's often reddish, and a silk equivalent. Cotton is rare and mostly found in the very far south of Bithrain.

Edited to add:
To make a mock-up of the overdress, I think I'd start with a qipao pattern, draft out the darts (non-period) and in some real shaping, then widen the skirt a bit (probably gores) and add sleeves. We're still in a rectangular construction period, where every inch of fabric counts

Linkies:
http://www.stylebubble.co.uk/style_bubble/2006/08/qipao_for_me.html
http://m-sewing.com/patterns-catalog/women/dresses/asian-dress.html
http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/qipao
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheongsam
http://www.cheongsamboutique.com/
http://13costumes.livejournal.com/tag/turkish

More linkies:
http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/3318 (sleeves)
http://www.asia-fashion.de/qipao/ (Chinese)
http://www.folkwear.com/122.html
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